FWIW, I ran one Hollyland and two Blackbirds on my new wireless rig and could not find any major issues.
That’s my current setup also and working well so far.
I have three elgato hd60 pros for sale. if anyone wants one or more pm me.
No clue what my old tiltforum account was, but this is Tim Hansen, ifpa: 1376. Coming back after a long hiatus (aka kids are old enough now)…
New to streaming, going to try it out and see how it goes with some borrowed equipment. 3x usb cams: 920 (player), 922 (scores) and brio (playfield), a USB 3.0 hub, and a Bietrun WXM22 wireless UHF lavalier mic or camera mic. My 2 choices for a computer are poor… a macbook pro 6+ years old without thunderbolt3/usbC (2x usb A ports), or a 5 year old PC with similar USB limitations. Not looking to buy new computer/laptop for this endeavor at this point as I want to dip my toes in the water before committing any $$$ to this. It took quite a bit of tomfoolery to get the 3x usb cameras on either solution but they both “work”.
I don’t plan to do any tournament broadcasting with this equipment. Mostly just content generation from my garage, and potentially (in the distant future if people enjoy it and want other machines) on location since I won’t have a high rotation capability for my collection. Same old problem… space and $$$.
I’m currently using Twitch Studio (beta) as that was thrown at me by twitch. Worked pretty well out of the box, but it seems most everyone uses OBS (obviously been around a lot longer than twitch studio beta). Has anyone compared the difference between the 2 on the same hardware? After 1 day I can setup a stream scene for a new game on twitch studio in about 15 mins including messing with camera ratios, but I’m doing simple 3 camera stuff. Chat functionality, alerts, graphics, websites, etc… seem to be fairly intuitive. I’m just wondering if some of my quality issues are with twitch studio, my lighting, my hardware, or?.. or whether learning/trying out OBS to compare would be worth it (hoping to be lazy and leverage someone else’s testing).
Audio is a big concern for me. Using the Bietrun is way better than the 920 built in mic, but I plan to have a guest join as part of my content and so the Bietrun is probably not a solution. The pinball sound coming from the Bietrun is definitely muted as well. I will be playing on old EM machines so grabbing game audio from a headphone jack is not a solution for me. From this thread it seems like a snowball might do the trick and be good enough for now? My concern is the snowball will tip over my already overburdened USB on both my current computer solutions. Maybe in the near future a snowball + a set of lapel microphones is the best for my situation?
From this thread it seems that longterm HDMI (and optionally wireless) is where everyone ends up. So basically looking to only pickup things that could also potentially be used for that (like the snowball mic).
Thanks everyone! Looking forward to seeing a lot of you for the first time in many years at INDISC
A small OBS tip: Be sure to enable Scale Filtering for any source that is scaled down (playfield cam, score cam, etc.). Right click the source, select Scale Filtering, and select Bicubic or Lanzcos.
By default, OBS uses no filtering when a source is scaled down, which causes noticeable aliasing and shimmering. Here’s a comparison, left side with no filtering. And it’s very flickery in motion. My OCD notices it right away…
This is very annoying that you can’t have a global preference setting in OBS. I patrol my scenes regularly to ensure I have scale filtering on every asset. Thank you, OCD comrade.
This might have gone unnoticed by some like me for a bit, but the latest OBS Studio versions now come with built in websockets. This opens the door for lots of automation through a web app to do things like preview scenes on a tablet (for a multiviewer kind of thing), custom streamdeck sort of things, or a nearly “headless” setup. Also things like telestrators and such with the playfield source underneath on a tablet.
Pretty decent deal on large capacity battery at Amazon right now. The white version is $56.
I’ve had such bad luck with the Anker power banks. The ones I’ve tested has not been compatible with the USB-PD blind spot cables I use for my cameras (I think it’s 12V 3A). Ravpower is my go-to but they’ve been booted off Amazon so you need to buy direct.
I’ve learned to check their specs for total watts and what the split is between the ports. Usually I only need 5V 3A for my stuff but I have a few that can only run one thing due to the power split. I bought one of those USB volt meters to check current draw of all my as stuff now.
I won’t buy anything except rosmoss anymore. Cheapest and they are tanks for the couple years I’ve used them. They have 30k and 60k banks too.
Ravpower are great but pricey.
Woah! USB volt meter would be very handy. Link?! I use kill-a-watt which is over-kill-a.
I have two from Makerhawk. No reason for the brand other than they looked not super cheap. I have a usb-a and usb-c version.
Interesting. One of my Anker batteries does not work with the one off usb cable I use with my pi. I actually assumed Anker was correctly implementing the standard and shutting down a bogus dangerous cable.
+1 Anker batteries for me have been troublesome. RAVpower awesome.
I can now expand this topic saying that some Anker wall chargers are bad as well. This is my go-to travel charger and it won’t negotiate 12V/3A with my cameras or a speaker I have hanging on my commentary station. My RAVpower warts work like champs here.
There might be something to that. I think there’s something about pull up resistors in the cables that tell the devices what power to use. And a lot are bad.