Twitch/livestream setups.

I’d like to try the 12v swap on my RXs. What cords should I buy for each?

At the TXs I’m using usb c to the ROMOSS 60k mah batteries.

If you want Rolls Royce you go with the Blind Spot ones (require USB-C extension cables depending on your setup), otherwise any no-name brand off amazon has historically worked well for me. These were the no-names I got last time.

You could also get any 12V wart for the RX since you have mains at your streaming booth.

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Would getting these 12 v to usb C cables be good for the TX too? I assume they would work with this power bank?

https://a.co/d/0g2qVyv4

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I’ve run no-name cables on four kinds of batteries and numerous USB-PD warts and never had any issues. Make sure the USB-C port supports 12V. It’s in the fine print on the battery.

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I’m really happy with the ones from Adafruit. They have multiple volt options and I think they’re better than the ugreen ones I have from amazon. I use them for my light panels and music synths etc.

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Ok I just went back and more experimenting.

To set this up, my initial tests were on Godzilla one room over from the office where I keep my RX stack. I was getting stutter only one room away, which shouldn’t happen. That’s when I discovered the 9V DC into the RX was the fix.

After my post, I rolled the rig to the far back corner where most of the games are kept. This room is only maybe 20 ft away but through 3 walls and 2 open doors. I began experiencing stuttering once again.

After last night’s success, I thought perhaps more voltage to the TX might be the fix, so I found a 12V 3A DC adapter lying around the house and viola! Smooth yet again. Basically, it seems the 5V just ain’t going to cut it. The more you add, the better it seems to perform. I’ll be switching everything over to 12V as well for both TX and RX.

PD batteries seem like the most ergonomic option, but I wish there was a way to tell how much they’re actually drawing, whether it’s the minimum listed by the power input of 7.4V or if it will default to 9V. Either way, it’ll certainly be better than 5V.

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I switched all of my Accsoon cords to these and they work great

Okay to recap. Will I get the same results if I have this cord for the TXs at the rig:

USB C to USB C Cable (3ft 2pack),… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9MGYCXV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Plugged into this battery. 12v is listed on the fine print for output on the battery.

https://a.co/d/05Cvbqrb

Then at the RXs I have this cord:

Plugged into this power brick:

https://a.co/d/02yjuiXQ

Trying to level this up for Pincinnati where the rig is going to possibly be far away through a couple walls.

I use the exact same setup and it works great.

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I live in the future.

These are the new travel friendly RAVPower/Alfox batteries (140W 27000mAH)

Any guesses? I’m hoping it’s the 2160p60 Teradek killer at 1/4 of the price of the Teradek (I’m allowed to dream).

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Are you able to get some readings on how much the Cineviews draw? I exchanged some emails with Accsoon and they say that, in general, more power is better and if “the input power isn’t enough then the WiFi transmission will decrease,” but I’m not convinced they have a solid understanding of how much input power is “enough” under different circumstances (like at power-up or through walls).

Regardless, I think we’re going to try upgrading both RX and TX to 5V/65w. Assuming the Cineviews will take 65w through the USBc port (Accsoon says they will), this is a relatively inexpensive way to dramatically up the power (nearly double 12V/3A and 6 times the 5V/2.1A we currently use on the TX).

FWIW, they also confirmed that only HDMI, not UVC, outputs 1080p/60 (like we discussed some time back).

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I don’t have any CineViews in this particular rig. I measured my CineEye 2 Pros a while back at 5W using a kill-a-watt.

Thank you for the information! Haha I actually feel somewhat vindicated because that experiment was completely on a whim. Let us know how the results of the upgrade go and the equipment you used to achieve it!

I’m developing an idea at a local arcade that I want some hot takes on. Imagine you as a streamer or content creator show up at the arcade with your laptop. The arcade has a wireless pinball streaming rig and a big screen TV you can tap into to and produce content.

You tap into these resources with a provided Thunderbolt 3 dock that will give you access to the TV over HDMI and a hardwired network where you will receive a 2160p60 NDI feed with three 1080p60 cameras laid out and an audio feed.

Who would this appeal to besides myself who don’t want to setup and breakdown my own rig every time I visit? All I need is my laptop that has a TB3 port. As a visitor, what would it be worth to you to “rent”?

I’ve been toying with a similar idea, but was thinking about an ethernet hand-off. One or more cameras at each machine providing rtsp feeds. Then a streamer can easily connect to the streaming ethernet network and import the feeds into their own layouts. No need to expose expensive hardware directly to players, just an ethernet cable.

Do you only plug the Accsons on those batteries to make sure you get the max W output? I think i share mine with the ZV1…

Ok cool, so you’re on it! The solution I’m building is a bit high touch in the sense that the there’s a mobile rig involved. The Thunderbolt dock is exposing a $20 extension cable, so I’m not too concerned about that that. I wanted to get rid of the headache when I stream from this location the “live” stream folks are watching locally is at whatever delay Twitch feels like, hence combining Ethernet and HDMI into one box.

I share with zv1 too. I think that is fine? I’ll let others comment.

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The zv1 pulls almost nothing - just a couple of watts, afaict.

The Cineview specs say they pull 5 watts on average. Accsoon support was unclear on what the max surge is, but I’d think the 20 remaining watts would be lots except possibly in extreme circumstances.

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