Twitch/livestream setups.

I filmed this not so quick video of how we set up our rigs. Hope you like it

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This was great!

Even though we have 5 people in our “crew,” I have to attend every event because I have too much of the setup knowledge just in my head. I need to make one of these!

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I only made it for our crew as well. But then I thought, why not post it?

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This made me chuckle. Someone got tired of micromanaging batteries. :smiley:

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I mean that works. You’ll never have to worry again and just plug it in when you go home to recharge.

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It’s the new meta! Our 12 38.8mAh batteries (6 on the rig and 6 replacements for multi-day tourneys) are a PITA. We often stream in places with low ceilings or doorways, else we’d have one of these.

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I have a Sony ZV1 question. One of my cams (especially the score cams) go in and out of focus when the players shake the machines. Is there anyway I can fix this?

Maybe a slower f-stop? I would think something like 5.6 or 8 would allow for a more lenient depth of field and still be ok for iso of a score display.

Or even just turn off auto focus?

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I have them on manual focus. It’s just weird

Try auto focus then. Or you’re saying it does it either way?

It especially happens when they shake the machines. lol

Are your cameras attached to the game? They shouldn’t shake if the game is nudged.

This definitely looks like an autofocus glitch.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/2173851233?t=1538s

Just a few seconds after 25:40 ish into the stream.

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No sorry, sometimes when the player shakes the pin, the score can goes in and out of focus. It has to be a setting on that camera that I am missing.

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have you got another camera? I’m going to guess it might have an actual fault looking at that video.

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Just wanted to share something I’ve just discovered with those who are running the CineView HEs. I’ve had some issues with frames dropping while running 3 of these, nothing major or unwatchable, but certainly noticeable on the playfield. I was running all the receivers through the 5V USB-C power input but wondered why the DC input allowed for up to 16.8V, so I found a random 9V DC power supply at our house (from a breastmilk pump lol) and tried using that for the playfield receiver power. It’s now a BUTTERY smooth 60fps with no discernible frame drops.

My guess is the extra voltage is used for signal boosting. If that’s true, then the higher the voltage in, the better signal, right? I’m not sure if using 3 power supplies on all the receivers will make them all smooth out completely or if one is now overpowering the others. I don’t have enough power supplies to test that theory, but the difference with using one is absolutely noticeable. If this is true, then it also stands to reason that DC power would be the best option for the transmitters as well.

I’ll look around the house for a 12V power supply to test, but I’m not sure how I will be able to tell if the signal strength is even better because I’m already at a perfect 60 fps.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I’ve always been suspicious of that 5V USB-C jack. I run mine on a 12V barrel with USB-PD.

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Did you run your test on the RX as you wrote or the TX? I don’t buy the hypothesis if it is the RX (not that I know how these wireless things work, maybe it does make sense). But the nice thing is that is the non-mobile part.

But I would be interested in knowing what usb-c power you are using as a comparison. The specs say it uses 4.5 Watts typically for the TX and 4.2 for the RX. So it is worth confirming your USB power is giving the needed 900mA. Or maybe it runs in current mode since there is no data and could go as high as 3A (but 1A is probably fine)

Great questions. I only ran the test on the RX. The TXs are powered by 7800mAh NP-F970 batteries. My USB-C power source was just a random Panasonic one I had lying around plugged into a power strip but it was outputting 5V at up to 1.8A.

I hear what you’re saying. It doesn’t make sense for a power swap at the RX to “boost the signal” per se, but something definitely changed for the better. That was just the only hypothesis that made any kind of sense.

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When I first go my Cineviews, I had some power issues with the 5V - they were occasionally powering off. Accsoon Customer Support told me that even though they’re rated for .9 amp, they could surge to as much as 1.4. I put each Tx on its own 2.1a 5V battery, and they seem to be working fine since then - although I suppose we could be dropping occasional frames and not noticing.

I didn’t ask them about the RX since we only run them on 12Vs.

I wouldn’t expect digital equipment like this to benefit from more power than its basic need but it’s possible, if you’re right on the cusp, that some components aren’t getting power but the overall unit still stays up.