So I heard that you can cut up an ear plug and place it under the crook of the tilt-bob-hangy-bit to more quickly deaden it after a good jostling. Does anyone have specific instructions for how to implement this? Or a picture? Thanks!
Everything you will ever want to know about tilts (including this) can be found in @soren’s amazing video:
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Perfect! Thanks, buddy. It was actually implemented slightly differently than I had envisioned. Glad I asked!
So I fixed the typo in your post’s subject line, but not before I took a screenshot of what is now your new nickname in Brackelope, Earl of Plug Tilt Hack 
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Damn you autocorrect!
Uh… I mean… thank you autocorrect!
No… wait… thank you Zoe. Yeah, that’s the one.
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Poor Earl!
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I have found this works great when the ear plug is split lengthwise in quarters. Halfs was just too big. Also seems to work best on bobs that are known to be very long to come to rest, such as TZ, TS, AFM, etc. I didn’t see too much difference on modern Stern tilt bobs.
I also noticed that to get the same sensitivity as without the ear plugs, I needed to move the bob up ever so slightly.
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Being an Earl, I’m glad you edited this title.
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I liked Tilt Hack but I think Earl Plug’s early albums were better.
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Yep. Quarters it is.
I my experience, there is no common settling time related to brand or mech generation. It depends on subtleties of wear, ageing, pitting and how the mech have been treated.
The Fish Tales game I used a lot for testing and demonstration actually changed behaviour. It became faster to get to rest. I redid all my footage as I learned, and all the sudden the tilt was bearly able to show the circular motion to much signifigance.
The footage of the Williams-assembly tilt swinging in the introduction in the Modification chapter in the film is from a Corvette game. It took forever to settle. Forever! And morphed into several directional patterns through out. Quite amazing to observe actually.
Thanks for the interest.
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