Ah yes that would work - jus check which PCI enclosure you get - some run of DC and some are AC only.
If you find a power bank with pass through charging please let me know - I’ve found pretty much all power banks stop providing power once you start charging unless you go for the large mega banks which even then have some limitations (and can take a while to charge). I wanted to find a power source that I could put on my rig that meant I would just charge / connect one thing to power over night and it would charge rather than having to swap power banks and unplugging a lot of things from power. You might want to check out the new Cam Link Pro from elgato that is incredibly well priced and has some nice features.
Right, I was looking at a Sonnet Echo enclosure, which is 12V DC powered. After trying and failing to find a power bank with decent DC out, I wonder if one with AC out might be the best option. The Goal Zero Sherpa 100AC might do the trick:
I’m now trying to find out if its AC output is kept stable when switching between pass-through mode and battery mode. I’m also waiting to get some info from Elgato about the power draw of the Cam Link Pro, which I couldn’t find any specs on.
Based on the specs, “pass-through mode” probably isn’t the right term to use. It looks more like a battery/inverter/charging circuit setup than ac pass-through – there is no direct AC input. Interestingly the inverter looks to output up to 100W, while the device can take in 50W via the barrel plug, or 60W via type-c.
You could probably get away with it if on average you stay a ways under 50W, but at that point, why not look into a small/portable UPS, so you can cut out the ac/dc/ac conversion under plugged in operation. You’d also be looking at $75-$100 instead of $300.
I may have found an answer to the “why not use a UPS” question: It is apparently not advisable to unplug a UPS while it is operational, since they expect the ground path to always be present and bad things can happen if there’s a short to ground in any of the devices. On the other hand, If I only connect double-insulated things, I suppose the risk for that is pretty small. On the third hand, if there’s a short to ground in the UPS itself… I think I’ll still give it a go, but not when kids are around, and always with a fire extinguisher in hand
So due to not being able to participate in tournament, I decided to record videos after a very long break again. Many thanks to all contributing in this thread - it was very, very helpful!
So here is my current configuration (sorry, some part descriptions are in German).
Main focus is tutorial videos… in German (not so many out there) und I also did it in English, well knowing that the benchmark by Bowen, Karl, Ray and many others is out of reach. But actually my approach (using chapters) is a bit different so I hope it’s still valuable even though it might have a kind of boring touch
Can’t really play without Batmans mojo
The LZ lockbar had a quality issue. My distributor was very kind and replaced it with one of his but wanted mine upfront.
I just got the “Monoprice Blackbird Pro WiHD 60GHz Uncompressed Wireless Professional HDMI Extender” and instantly regret not consulting with the folks here. On the monoprice reviews (their website) people have trouble running three pairs of these at the same time, I see the same issue.
There’s also a lot of babbling of “line of sight” but what IS line of sight? What is front/back/up/down on these things?
Thanks Chuck, I managed to sift through this thread and understand the two pair limitation. I’ve ordered a Nyrius WS55 to complement. I also understand what line of sight is but these radio things usually have a front that faces each other, is that the smoked plastic that is considered the front that should have line of sight?
I have a plan in place to have the TX/RX completely unobstructed about 8’ up, max distance will be about 35’.
Yes that is what I do. Face the front smoked plastic towards each other. The side with the lights on it. Same for the Nyrius. For that one you’ll need to add a splitter for the hdmi on the receiver side before you plug it into the capture device. Receiver goes into the input of the splitter, then take a hdmi from one of the outputs of the splitter to the capture device. Done.
Sounds like a good plan. Higher up the better so nothing will obstruct. I’ve pushed the limits of these so 35’ is more than fine. You can get to at least 45’ before they start fussing.
I really haven’t had any major issues. They work for me. I have streamed 6 tournaments at District 82 Pinball this year so far with them and a bunch the last 3 years there. No plans to change them.
I don’t understand what you mean by having an extra splitter?
The ones chuckwurt posted are what I use. They usually go on sale and can get them for roughly about $140 a pair.
Thanks for the reply. The Nyrius add HDCP to the signal and it needs to be stripped (a HDMI splitter is the cheapest way to do it) before capturing it.
Is the latency consistent between all three pairs?
The utility belt isn’t coded on LZ