Thanks for the detailed reply. As you can see I have no old machines or experience with them and thats also the week part of my tutorials. I feel the “weak mech” problem a littlebit on my LOTR machine, but even after rebuilding the flippers the problem persisted. Thats why I also included “flipper mechs” as a factor. However, I did not know it could have such a huge impact, so I will mention that too, if I`m able to record it well enough. A good idea to loosen up the mech for demonstration. However, I will not go into detail on how to approach a machine, since I have to do more research on it and it would be a whole video on its own.
So you want me to call it the “deadly bounce”? Since two guys over at pinside complained about my terminology and I should stick to the PAPA terminology… well they earned a shitstorm for it.
@LOTR_breath thanks, you inspired me to even get more fancy with the editing in this one
In addition to flipper style by manufacturer and era, the type of rubber rings on the flippers makes a huge difference when dead bouncing.
Standard rubbers have a predictable bounce based on their durometer which varies by color. For instance black rubber rates around “60” and is harder with less bounce than red rubber which rates around “45”, a bit softer so it has more bounce. Less commonly used, yellow and white tend to be even softer with more bounce, but I don’t recall how their durometer ratings stack up.
On top of that, alternate flipper rubbers like Superbands have completely different properties. They claim to have the same durometer as standard rubber, but when I see that slick and shiny finish I know I’m going to get less action on a dead bounce and feel uncomfortable trusting one with a slower moving ball. As far as I know these urethane based brands don’t have durometer variance by color and tend to perform the same across the rainbow.
Nice video and the one-handed suggestion is excellent!
Terminology note: I’ve always called it a “crook drain” on a botched dead bounce when the ball catches the inside edge of the lane guide.
As far as I can tell, nobody makes real flipper rubber in colors other than yellow/red/black. Pinball life flipper rubber used to come in ROYGBIV colors and it was really good but they killed it for that silicone/superband nonsense. And FWIW, I can’t really tell much difference between the bounciness between colors. Basically, black is harder, everything else is close enough that the differences aren’t attributable to just rubber IMO.
I don’t think I’d include the em non-bounce stuff right after going through all this because it would take away from the lesson. People should be practicing, as he recommends, and they will be able to figure out that it might not work on every single machine. I mean, I wouldn’t expect to be warned not to alley pass on some machines because the ‘alley’ falls off the cliff on grand prix. I would probably try it on grand prix and then be like ‘woah. better come up with something else here.’ Same thing goes for that Stars machine that I always try to dead bounce on and slap my forehead every time I drain.
That also represents my opinion, since the deadly bounce is especially informative for tournament players.
I will think about it. The nice thing is, there is so much to discover and that means more videos
Work in progress with some missing clips and lack of sounds. Thats the first part with the nudging basics.
Please let me know if something is unclear, missing or not presented well in your opinion.
As usual, excellent. Really liked the segment where the playfield was up, and the video showed how the tilt bob reacted to the nudging with your hands in the video frame, too.
