I do this on Monster Bash out of Creature. Out of that scoop on the one I play, it dead passes and bounces up into the right slingshot and fires, but just barely. So, I try and pull the machine back to deaden the momentum of the dead pass.
It’s not always that effective though. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I find it difficult to pull the machine back enough to actually deaden the momentum, but the positive to that is it doesn’t hurt to try as the risk is minimal.
thanks, thats exactly what I was thinking of. I was also interested on how to manage slingshot nudging, maybe i find that guide from dbs.
@Snailman sometimes I feel like up nudging on the slings helps the ball to shoot up and away- avoiding the outlanes (if the ball hits the hypotenuse on the upper third). For me, trying to reduce the rebound of the sling only would make sense if you could avoid the second contact with the opposite slingshot, because if the ball hits the opposite sling, the ball will work its way back up anyway, with multiple sling rebounds back and forth. So why trying to protract this process instead of trying to give the ball more vertical momentum?
EDIT: you where talking about that skillguide?
http://wapinball.net/skillguide.pdf
That’s the one. See the section on it there. The timing of the nudge changes depending on where the ball is hitting the sling.
This seems like it’s getting into very game dependent territory. Nudging away from the ball might be just the thing on some particular EM with a less bouncy rubber in an area that will often send balls down the middle and you want it on a near flipper versus a far flipper, or something like that anyway.
Here is the part you where talking about and its still not clear to me:
One area of the playfield where nudging is absolutely vital is around the slingshots. A ball that is moving horizontally is much more likely to drain, especially on newer machines. Knowing how to nudge the machine, both when the ball first hits the slingshots and when it leaves them, will greatly decrease the number of outlane drains. Generally, if a ball is going to hit the lower half of a slingshot (i.e. closest to the flippers), nudge forward just as the ball makes contact with the slingshot rubber. If a ball is going to hit the upper half of a slingshot, nudge forward just after the ball ricochets, to force it further up the playfield and away from the outlanes.
The point of contact determines the timing of the nudge:
Upper half = nudge up at the instant of ball contact- to shoot the ball up
Lower half = nudge up slightly after contact- to ???
What are you trying to do with the lower half case here?
I know its hard to describe, since the ball always comes at a different speed or angle 
I’m not sure how to state it any clearer than Dave did.
From your summary, it seems you’ve reversed the timing. It should be:
Upper half = nudge up later, as the ball is leaving the sling - to get the ball higher up the playfield.
Lower half = nudge up earlier, just as the ball begins making contact with the sling - to attempt getting the ball to have less sling action, decreasing its likelihood to “walk” its way up to the higher portion of slings from the back-and-forth sling action.
I did build a little ball guide on the playfield, so that the ball rolls into the slingshot the same way and speed every time and I tried differnt nudging angles and timing.
What I learned from this was that upward nudging is not affecting the ball in any noticable way.
But nudging the machine diagonally against the incoming ball, really helps to shoot the ball more upwards.
I will test this out even more, but I have a strong feeling I wont be able to reproduce what you and dbs are saying.
Thanks for taking the time, I appreciate it.
It might be more applicable to older slings that fire slower, and have more give in their sling rubber? Shrug
That totally makes sense 
I tested it on a Mandalorian Pro.
If someone could read the scipt for the upcoming tutorial i would be very thankful 
Live Catch
This might be the hardest skill in pinball due to the difficult timing. You can cancel the balls momentum completely by hitting it with the flipper at the exact end of stroke. It`s not necessary to catch the ball stone dead on the flipper, just getting it into a cradle does the job.
Being able to live catch gives you a huge advantage, since you can avoid risky bounces or shots on the fly. However, failed live catches are dangerous too so alsways estimate risk.
Be cautious after catching the ball, because sometimes it might have a spin to it. This is especially true for catches on the flippers tip.
Practice
The hardest part is to get the timing right. If you are too early, the ball bounces off the flipper, and if you are too late, you shoot away the ball. Think of this when you try to evaluate the timing of your catches.
Often the right timing might be later than you think, so if you are still failing, trick yourself by lifting your fingers off the flipper button before the catch. This will delay the catch for a few milliseconds.
Slower balls are easier to catch than faster ones, but that`s not true for very slow balls.
Live catches are highly dependent on the flipper mechs- rubbers and angles, for this reason you will have an easier time on some machines than others.
First sentence of the practice section is written twice.
Thanks, I corrected it. That mistake would not have made it to the final recording.
It might be clear once the video is added, but I think it is important to mention two details of the “angles” that Live Catches depend on:
You are right, I thought the video should speak for itself regarding angles, but i think i can clarify that in one sentece with a little animation better.
I also didn`t want to go too deep into it, because the pivot point on the flipper combined with the approaching balls angle is hard to explain, too many changing variables.
I am already working on the “nudging” script and I wanted to add the orbit nudge there, but it makes sense to include it here too, since it is mainly paired with a live catch.
Thanks alot!
Here is the latest clip, thanks for the support! 
Man, your editing and overall polish on these is just getting better and better. Keep up the fantastic work!
Hey there,
here is a unfinished version of the next video.Please let me know if you think there is anything wrong or missing. Please dont share the content until I release it. 
[link removed]
As usual, fantastic! You cover all the key nuances of dead bounces: the red shading and demonstration of failed technique is one of the most important parts. And your half-and-half ball to show spin is a great technique.
There is only critical physical aspect missing: depending on how long it’s been since a flipper rebuild – and also the manufacturer type (Gottliebs are the worst) – some flipper bats/shafts and associated under-playfield parts (that the player cannot see) have grown loose, resulting in a “deadly” bounce: the speed of the ball is absorbed by the loose flipper bat and the ball rolls quickly down the flipper and into the drain. Nearly identical to how the ball behaves when it hits the top of the flipper “red” zone, even though it physically hit he “green” zone. You can sometimes overcome this with more forceful upward nudging to assist the dead bounce.
The methods to predict whether a flipper will provide a good bounce is by test-flipping the flippers before plunging, and noting how much “play” (or wiggle) there is in flipper as it actuates. If there is a lot of play, then the flipper will provide a less safe rebound. You can also learn by watching how the ball behaves for other players, before you fall victim to a deadly dead bounce. 
If you’re wanting to demonstrate it in a video, you may need to temporarily loosen one of your flipper mechs.
Yes. Definitely show at least one deadly bounce. Haha