are they all updated to latest code?
On your receiving end make sure you’ve split the receivers onto more than one USB power supply. I’ve yet to find a beefy enough USB PSU that can take three of them at the same time.
are they all updated to latest code?
On your receiving end make sure you’ve split the receivers onto more than one USB power supply. I’ve yet to find a beefy enough USB PSU that can take three of them at the same time.
I had a look zowiebox a while ago for some work I’m doing with the Saudi’s on massive streaming for huge PC gaming team tournaments (they wanted to be able to do per player cam etc in a massive 250 player venue) but 4k30p and no clarity on 10bit. I couldn’t even get them to tell me if they would do 1080p/60 consistently as the spec sheet isn’t clear on that.
let us know how it goes Jamie - good luck.
Neil.
whats the setup for this? This is the solution I would like to run as I’ve got plenty of tablets.
I’ve used rav power and this one and both worked fine whether using usb c or usb.
200W USB C Charger Block, GaN III… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHY6RWZH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I had to deal with WiFi interference at never seen before impact this weekend. Having the WifiAnalyzer app on Android saved my behind to find a channel range that wasn’t busy. I’ll never trust “Auto” ever again.
I’m bringing 200’ of RJ45 next time to spare me from popping an aneurysm.
It’s a Frankenstein right now. I have a dedicated HDMI out for the OBS program that goes into a HDMI splitter. I have a ZowieBox sitting on one of the outputs that puts a 720p30 NDI HX2 feed on a network where the Surface Go is connected to. NDI Studio Monitor consumes the feed and WebRTC-Telestrator (WRT) runs on the Surface. OBS on the broadcast computer consumes the MJPEG feed produced by WRT to overlay the telestration.
Why the Frankenstein? WRT is a one-and-done dead project it seems without any licensing and more of a tech demo. The WebRTC portion of the WRT implementation is really slow, sluggish and inefficient which makes the video on the Surface run very sluggish. I’d say it runs at about 12-15fps and the Surface bottoms, CPU-wise.
The upside with the solution as a whole is that the Surface will not steal input focus on the broadcast computer or hog resources to run WRT. I tried running WRT on a separate HDMI touchscreen attached to the broadcast computer and it completely bottomed to CPU during high bitrate situations. Bear in mind that I run everything on a MacBook Pro and this would most likely just be fine if you run this on any modern PC.
Also, if it’s not entirely clear, I don’t think you easily can run WRT on any “tablet”. You need to be able to install NodeJS and run node from CLI. WRT is only tested on Edge. Chrome worked on Mac FYI. Surface Go is a stock Windows 11 tablet.
Knowing what I know now, I think a better solution is to have a dedicated laptop with more resources than a Surface Go to run WRT but you can’t beat the form factor and handiness of it being completely untethered.
Well I FINALLY figured out what the issue was after weeks of tinkering. Bottom line - don’t trust the cheap batteries you get off the Jungle Website. Got one during Prime Day and I guess they’re not all created equal, even when they claim 5V/2.1A. I should have known something was up when I couldn’t get PD to supply 12V like it claimed and had to switch to the 5V USB-C option.
It would work okay for about 30 minutes, started going in and out, and finally give up after about 45 minutes.Changed it out for a better quality unit and viola!
Yep. Ravpower, Monoprice, and ROMOSS are the only batteries I trust at the moment.
I hate power banks.
I’ve lost confidence in every brand I’ve tested. I swore by Ravpower but after RMA’ing 5-6 banks this year, they’re off the altar. If you have early Ravpower banks, they’re good for 400-500 discharges. I also had DOA’s from Anker and another Chinese brand selling the same kind of bank.
Also, good power banks have a “draw spec” that will at least give you an idea of what you can plug in where. Sometimes it’s a matter of reading the manual.
I need banks that are flight legal (<30,000-ish mAh) and have two USB-PD and one USB-A. Please share your winners.
And they have a 60k one as well. I’ll never buy another brand. I’ve had these for years now with zero issues.
The mono price ones and Ravpower I have are very early yes. Only have used ROMOSS for the past 3 years or so.
I got a hot tip from a viewer about hovpinball.com. FINALLY a sane solution that just works for SPIKE2 LVDS capture. The GeekWorm boards have just driven me up the wall with all the issues.
I installed my first one today: https://youtu.be/MZ9i1Y4X7P8
For the folks interested, the above video is my first spin with the CineView Master 4K. It will have issues with different capture cards, I can tell you that much. It did not work with my multiviewer without reprogramming the EDID (I used a splitter, but I’m getting a dongle to hold the programming). My existing 12V barrels and existing Monoprice HDMI cables worked just fine with it.
Great in-depth review of the Accsoon CineView Master 4K: Accsoon CineView Master 4K Review - Newsshooter
The reviewer found a peculiar issue where video is saved when using the Accsoon app where the file states 54.26fps video.
I’m seeing something similar on the pair I have when counting frames (over HDMI), where I have one double frame and a 1-2 frame skip per second, consistently. Everything states 4K60. I’m currently hounding Accsoon support.
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My biggest obstacle seems to be obstructions (walls). We often stream at someone’s house and the booth has to move to the garage where the rig is in the basement area where the games are. Perhaps it will be worth the upgrade down the line as the price comes down on these units. I’d be curious to see how the perform in this situation.
I’ve not tested the range on the CineView 4K yet. I’ve only determined that the 12Mbit/s isn’t good enough for my intended application. I used my pair to upgrade my wireless b-cam setup as the quality is adequate for that type of work.
The challenge you’ll have with getting three RX/TX pairs of the CineView 4K’s is that you’ll bring in nine additional WiFi networks into whatever environment you’re in. If there’s obstructions I wouldn’t be surprised if it makes things nine times the obstruction worse.
You might want to understand why “12Mbit/s isn’t good enough”. I put four 1080p60 inputs on a 4K60 canvas. In the action sport of pinball there’s simply too much movement. I’ve been running tests for the last week or so trying to understand this better and if I’m around 30Mbit/s with H.264 encoding, I’m good.
The right one is the CineView Master 4K and the center one is a Kiloview N60 at 4K60 30Mbit/s H.264 over SRT. This is what OBS renders in the preview of a 1080p60 canvas. If you step back an additional few feet you probably can’t tell the difference (besides the colors). Apply the additional hamstring of 6000Kbit/s Twitch encoding and your viewers are watching a potato. I might try make a video of this as the CineView 4K looks absolutely terrible when in motion.
For reference, the Magewell Pro Convert 4K is my starting point. 1440p60 with Full NDI, roughly 300Mbit/s.
I’m quite happy with the Kiloview N60, I got it today, so don’t jump on it. The NDI plugin for OBS is currently broken with NDI|HX (compression basically) so I’m using SRT for now. The drawback with SRT is the seconds long lag which will prove annoying in small venues. Hopefully the NDI|HX issues will be fixed soon.
The point I’m getting at here is that if you bring your own network you control your own destiny. I have two dual-band WiFi access points that are meshed together and acts as a wireless bridge for the devices hanging in the rig and the broadcaster computer. However, I found out the hard way that trying to push 300-400Mbit/s when there’s “unknown” interference around it won’t cut the mustard. During these episodes I had to dial back the Magewell encoder to around 100Mbit/s which looked terrible. Now, with H.264 and a meager 30Mbit/s in comparison, full 4K, I would say it looks subjectively better.
To finish of my long rant, I can, I don’t want to, buy a third access point that I can move closer to where the rig is and have hardwired back haul. That will solve the problem of sitting in the garage with a rig in the basement. Just bring 100’ of RJ45 and run the cable downstairs to an access point on the same floor.
Interesting and well conceived analysis! If I understand correctly and we scale your thoughts down to a 1080p canvas like us small fries use, it would be less taxing on any given network to change the player and display cameras to 720p/60fps thereby reducing the effect of any interference because there is less information being forced into an already crowded environment? The effect on the picture would be minimal to imperceptible because of how the sources are laid out on the canvas.
Just to clarify, I use a 1080p60 canvas in OBS, not 4K (my poor Macbook can’t handle it). The feed I’m receiving across the network is 4K60. You can use a 1080p60 feed as well. It doesn’t look terrible but there’s less pixels to work with and H.264/H.265 doesn’t do a very good job. Here’s a final rendering of 1080p60 feed in quad mode (every quadrant is 960x540 pixels) assembled in OBS. It’s 32Mbit/s using a Magewell Ultra Encode with SRT.
The trick here to avoid scaling artifacts is to run every camera feed without any scaling and 1:1 pixel mapping, hence the “bar” below the playfield camera which is unconventional.
Question for ya’ll…
What are your camera settings to fix the SS scores flicker? This is for a moving from game to game tournament setup so we need to keep it as simple and easy as possible without going deep into settings every game change.
Our score camera is a Sony ZV-1F
Also- do ya’ll find polarized lens filters help with glass glare?
Thanks for your time and expertise!
Exposure. Try messing with that first. Auto seems to handle it fine for us. Now if a certain led display is particularly finicky, you might have to manually adjust exposure for that specific game on the fly.
While I don’t have a ZV1F on the score now, it’s planned for next year. I will report back once I get more experience with them for a score cam.
In the process of upgrading the rig for the next LPA Open.
Is the ZV-1 still a good alternative?
What is the difference between ZV-1 and ZV1F?