Whirlwind tournament settings?

Is there some specific recommended tournament setting for Whirlwind, or tournament roms etc`?
It seems like there is some randomness from player to player when it comes to the cellar(?) awards, can this be set to being consistent and same for everyone?

all tips welcome :slight_smile:

I’ve got a rom to always start on quick mb for the cellar awards, not sure where I got it offhand…

Personally I have my locks on hard, and I’ve jacked up the settings related to the ramp/tolls as much as possible.

Some players may attempt to “ramp out” similar to how the ramp is abused in Earthshaker, though the shot in Whirlwind is slightly more difficult and less lucrative, meaning the strategy is less of a concern. The common objective in Whirlwind is multiball jackpots. Multiball is achieved by shooting stand-up targets placed around the playfield. On any game where the main strategy forces a player into an uncontrollable shot, such as these stand-up targets, there should be less emphasis on widening outlanes or making the game more difficult. Players are already putting themselves in peril every time they attempt to advance toward multiball. With extra balls turned on, Whirlwind can be a long-playing game, but in a tournament setup where only three balls are played, Directors are encouraged to leave the game reasonable with respect to outlanes and sling sensitivity. Even long-playing, three-ball games of Whirlwind in a competitive environment are typically shorter than many other DMD games. Directors should also consider rebuilding the upper right flipper mechanism (or even upgrading it to a 6209 coil) to ensure the jackpot ramp is consistently makeable. Increasing the effectiveness of the upper flipper will do little to increase game times, but it will certainly increase the potential for high scores and added excitement.



door award is changed by the spinner anyway so really not an issue since players are likely to be hitting that at some point in gameplay.

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I don’t like Quick MB start lit at the celler as default.

Starting Quick MB on Whirlwind with two balls in lock already, which could be from an opponent in a competition game, converts to a Lock MB instead. 3 balls instead of 2 with higher scoring opportunities and restart possible. So Quick MB at start of ball 1 is really a short plunge and a gimme. Very unfair. Especially if the game is on hard setting with all those shots to make to light lock.

I say default to one of the points ones. An option to collect the the free points. Or bet on the skill to wait and take the Celler when at a more lucrative award.

The topic was Whilrwind for competition. Whirlwind is quirky in that setting it to no extra balls do not eliminate the extra ball award on the Celler. But collecting it does nothing (I believe). To eliminate the extra ball award set adj. 43 to 0.

Do you have a custom rom for this?

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@soren any eta on your roms going up for sale on PPS?

One other thing I’d recommend: set multiball starts to easy, so they can always be started via the saucer under the ramp. By default later multiballs require the side ramp. Commonly WW have trouble making the ramp anyway, so making the hard to reach MB start even harder by requiring that is sorta mean

definitely important to rebuild that flipper often and upgrading coil if still weak. nothing worse than a WW where you cant hit that ramp :confused:

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Yup, WW and Taxi, same issue. On mine those flippers are nice and fresh :slight_smile: But it rarely seems to be like that in events I go to for one reason or another, so anything you can do to alleviate the issue in other ways is important

Both games use weaker 11630 coils, but dirty or worn EOS switches are the likeliest suspect when flippers go weak. All flippers use normally closed high power EOS switches that have to be just right. Install new EOS switches before the event and make sure they each have less than 1 ohm resistance when closed (power off). Brand new high power EOS switches often need the contacts lightly sanded to get under 1 ohm. Test and sand (~400 grit) if needed before installing, then test again after installing. Wax playfield with slippery wax if needed.

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I just checked the Celler extra ball quirk I mentioned earlier. With extra balls off but adj 43 as-is, the extra ball option is available as Celler award. Getting this pays 50K and “Extra ball lit”. Hitting the drop target celebrates “Extra ball”. But no extra ball is given. And this gives no points either besides what else is available at the drop.

So it is really up to the TD to decide on how the Celler rules work. Either 7 awards for completion with the EB one being a 50K one. Or 6 awards for completion.

Whoa whoa. I think you have misunderstood something. Unless I am wrong, the high power switches for pinball is coated in tungsten for better durabillity switching a high voltage (exposed to high temperature, really). And they are not suppose to measure a low resistance at all using a standard ohm meter.

I admit that a file or sand paper can revitalise a worn switch (guilty). But taking sand paper to a new switch will just destory it. Don’t do that.

I was aware they use tungsten in the contacts, but I’ve never heard that they shouldn’t read low resistance using a standard meter. Looking at Clay’s System 11 guide, he recommends filing worn or pitted EOS switches. I learned from experience. Kept doing complete flipper rebuilds and one or more flipper was still weak. Lightly sand contacts and flipper goes back to full power.

Now I’m curious what they’d measure using an analog meter. Is there some other more accurate ohm meter?

This is the first I’ve heard that they are just tungsten coated. I thought they were the same all the way through, or at least a significant layer. A short swipe of 600 grit shouldn’t hurt them I’d think. I think of all the original EOS switches that are really well worn down from use and they still work fine (with adjustment to compensate for the smaller height). Also regarding the resistance - it might be better to just measure the voltage at the coil (which would be going through the EOS) and make sure it’s not a significant drop - since the higher voltage might be a factor in overcoming inherent resistance on the new switch.

I’ve found Pat Lawlor’s version of the Steve Richie picard shot is slightly earlier. If you play a lot of one or the other you have to adjust your timing to be successful.

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The reason I test them before installing is because virtually every new high power switch I buy has some resistance over 1 ohm. I don’t know if it’s naturally occurring oxidation from the metals used or what, but most all new switches have some resistance. Seems like the resistance would limit current flow, but not decrease measured voltage at the coil lugs.

It should if it’s significant. I don’t have a problem with filing the high current switches at all, if needed. I do wonder though if they are coated in oil or something as a byproduct of manufacturing or to inhibit rust? That would certainly cause more resistance. I’m not sure as well how accurate most meters are at low resistances. I don’t think what you’re doing hurts at all though, until I see evidence to the contrary.

That said I don’t think I’ve had to file a high voltage flipper contact (on mech or button) for a long time. They seem to hold up in home usage for years.

I’ve definitely had cases where I observed new contacts reading even 2-3 ohms before I gave them a quick filing. Anything over 0.5 ohms I find suspect, and I’ve seen a difference in flipper strength sometimes even between a 0.4 and a 0.9.

Yes I believe an oxidation layer is the reason these switches can measure considerable resistance when new. But I do not think it matters much. In that you benefit from filing or sanding these before installing them when new. They will self clean, so to speak. And have lower resistance when conducting from heating up. I am curious and might do some investigation into this.

Filing worn switches to improve performance serves a purpose other than removing non-conducting stuff from the surface. And that is to flatten the contact points to greaten the metal to metal contact area. And that the switch closes nicely into place.

You know the term “It is never ther coil”. Well. The left flipper on my Mousin Around game had lost performance on the left flipper to a point where the mouse hole and even the ramp was impossible to make. Went to the place with fresh EOS and flipper switches in the bag but got suspicios after hustling around with some alligators first. And decided to replace the coil. Bang, the flipper performance was back. The old coil ohms out correctly. Hmmmmm.