The unstuck - Stuck ball in Multiball conundrum.

[raydaypinball]

I don’t mind the idea of a point cap in general, but I have to say I am NOT in favor of making every event pin golf style where someone who does something on ball 1 is treated better than someone who does it on ball 2 or 3. Sometimes you get a house ball, or play riskier knowing it’s ball 1 or ball 2. Then ball 3 is your last hoorah and can lead to exciting comebacks, etc.

[pinwizj]

@Snailman

But what should be the ruling if interlocks haven’t been disabled? If player chooses to have the stuck ball drained rather than risk a tilt, and upon opening the coin door, the flippers go dead, draining their cradled ball. And then their inlane/outlane post stuck ball is also drained. And if the software doesn’t compensate for the cradled-now-drained ball, then cue up @pinwizj’s favorite line: “You’re f*cked.” Sound about right?

I would open the door and consider having those balls trade places. In essence the ball that drains from the flipper ends the multiball, and then you can salvage the ball on the outlane post and throw it in the plunger lane.

The right answer is DISABLE THE F*CKING INTERLOCK

[chuckwurt]

I have a World Cup soccer I will want to do this with. Just desolder from the switch or is there another way?

Same question for SAM stern games.

[pinwizj]

@chuckwurt

I have a World Cup soccer I will want to do this with. Just desolder from the switch or is there another way?

Same question for SAM stern games.

We always go ghetto style . . . take the interlock assembly off the door, and tape the switch closed (I’ve also seen a flipper rubber used to give the switch enough tension to close it).

The game then thinks the door is ALWAYS CLOSED whether it’s open or not.

[michi]

Hey, that’s only eleven balls, not twelve!

[chuckwurt]

I like that approach. Duct tape it is.

[Snailman]

@chuckwurt

Just desolder from the switch or is there another way?

We used some cardboard, with zip ties around the cardboard and the metal plate where the interlock switch is mounted.

[soren]

@chuckwurt

I have a World Cup soccer I will want to do this with. Just desolder from the switch or is there another way?

Do not make any semi permanent bypass of the interlock. You want it for repairs and general maintainance. You being zapped is one thing. But the real problem is killing the switch matrix driver by a short to some juicy power line.

It you really want the premanent solution, just do it by the connectors. High power may still be disconnected by the transformer secondary connector on the power driver board.

I have yet to find the perfect solution to this. Flipper rubbers (used once) can do the job, but doesn’t always feel super stable.

[chuckwurt]

Ended up going with this. Very easy to do and undo. Thanks.

[ClevelandPinball]

What about adding a molex connector (or toggle switch?) right after the wiring at the switch? A bit labor intensive, but you’d only have to do it once.

[phishrace]

Most all of those switches use quick connects. Take a short piece of insulated 18 gauge wire and crimp or solder two male quick connects on the ends. Once connected, use shrink tubing to cover exposed ends, if needed. Manual shows you which two wires to use.